Complete step-by-step instructions for perfect Installation
Installing a roller blind takes four screws and about 20 minutes. Fix two brackets, click the chain end in, slide the pin end in, twist the adjuster to close the gap, then fit the chain tensioner. Our roller blinds are DIY: you measure, we make them to your sizes in Australia, and you fit them yourself. Here's every step for a recess fit and a face fit, plus double rollers and motorised blinds.

Yes. Ours are made to go up at home with a drill and a level. Our instructions put it at 10 to 20 minutes a blind, and one person is usually enough. Grab a helper for a wide blind or a double roller.
Our rollers run on the Acmeda RB09 control, a 45 mm aluminium tube and powder-coated steel brackets, and the steps below are for that hardware. Re-hanging another brand's blind? The release can differ, and our guide to taking blinds down covers the common types.
In the box: the blind, a bracket for the chain end, a bracket for the pin end, bracket covers and the chain tensioner. Before you drill anything, check the chain is on the side you ordered.
Why no screws? Every window goes into something different, so we leave the fixings to you. Timber screws go straight into a timber frame or a stud. On plasterboard, hit a stud or use a rated hollow-wall anchor. On brick, concrete or tile, use a masonry bit and matching plugs. Not sure what you're drilling into? Send us a photo and we'll tell you.
You chose this when you ordered, and it decides where the brackets go. A recess fit (inside mount) sits inside the window opening and needs at least 60 mm of depth, or about 125 mm for a double roller. A face fit (outside mount) screws to the architrave or the wall above the window and covers the whole opening.
Look for anything sticking into the opening, like a handle, a winder or a lock. If one sticks out more than 45 mm, the 55 mm extension bracket clears it, and a front roll keeps the fabric off it. Both are choices you make when you order.
Haven't ordered yet? Start with our measuring guide for blinds: give us the real numbers and we make every deduction. The roller blinds buying guide explains which fit suits which room.

A recess-fit blind is made a little narrower than the opening so it runs freely. You'll see a slim line of light down each side, and that's normal.
A face fit screws to the front of the architrave, or to the wall where there isn't one. Once the brackets are up, the blind goes in exactly the same way. It's the marking out that's different.
A face fit blocks more light than a recess fit, because the blind overlaps the opening by at least 50 mm each side.
Every chain blind comes with a chain tensioner: a small guide that screws to the frame or wall and holds the chain loop taut. It takes one screw. Fit it before anyone uses the blind.
We cut the chain so its end sits about 1 m off the floor. Leave the warning label on the blind.

A snapped chain or a cracked bracket later on doesn't mean a new blind. We sell roller blind parts: brackets, chains, chain drives, idle ends, bracket covers and end caps.
A double roller is two blinds on one double bracket, one in front of the other. Some people call them day and night blinds or dual rollers. The install is the same as a single, with three differences.
It's heavier than a single, so have someone take the other end on a wide window. You choose which blind sits in front when you design it on our double roller blinds page.

A wide window can take two blinds side by side instead of one. Our measuring guide suggests it once a window is wider than we can make a single blind. Each blind goes up with the same steps as above.
Two tips. Put the chains on the outer edges, so nothing hangs in the middle. And level all the brackets to one line, so both blinds sit at the same height. If you're not sure how to split the width before you order, call us on 1300 195 797.

Want two layers on the same window instead, one for day and one for night? That's a double roller, above.
A battery motor goes up exactly like a chain blind: same brackets, same four screws, no electrician. Charge it fully before you hang it, because the charging port is easier to reach on the bench than up a ladder. Then pair the remote and set the top and bottom limits, following the instructions that come with the motor. The remote has to match the motor brand.
A wired motor runs on 240V, so an electrician runs power to the window first, then you hang the blind and plug it in. Don't wire it yourself. Our motorised blinds guide compares battery and wired, and the Acmeda and Somfy motors we use.
Prefer it on paper? Download the instructions for your fit.
Yes. Ours are DIY: you measure, we make the blind to your sizes, and you fit it with a drill, a level and screws to suit your wall. Allow 10 to 20 minutes a blind.
Get the brackets right and the rest is a click. Mark them, check them with a level, and screw them into timber, a stud or a proper plug.
Chain end first: line the control up with the tongue on the bracket and seat it. Then lift the other end, slide the pin through the guide and turn the adjuster clockwise until the blind is held firm and won't lift out.
No. If you can drill a level hole, you can fit one. The tricky part is the wall: plasterboard with no stud needs a hollow-wall anchor, and brick or tile needs a masonry bit and plugs.
Ours don't, because a brick wall, a timber architrave and plasterboard all need different fixings. The brackets, bracket covers and chain tensioner are in the box.
Usually not. Our blinds come with their own brackets, so take the old ones down and fill the holes before you mark up.
Start with free samples and the measuring guide, then see the price as you go. Made to measure in Australia, dispatched in 8 to 15 business days, and you fit it yourself.
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Address: 16 Bradwardine Road, Robin Hill NSW 2795
Email: hello@homeblindsaustralia.com.au
Phone: 1300 195 797
Address: 16 Bradwardine Road, Robin Hill NSW 2795
Email: hello@homeblindsaustralia.com.au
Phone: 1300 195 797
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